Boy Scout Handbook ( edition) | Open Library

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- Boy Scout Handbook ( edition) | Open Library

 

Paperback in English. Libraries near you: WorldCat. Book Details Published in New York. Edition Notes Publication began in Title varies: 19 The official handbook for boys. Classifications Dewey Decimal Class B7 A3. Community Reviews 0 Feedback? Lists containing this Book Books to read from weslee d. Loading Related Books. March 17, Edited by Andre Robatino. August 8, This is a […]. Consenting to these technologies will allow us to process data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site.

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- Manual Resource Center - Sea Scouts BSA

 

Watson, Jr. Brunfon, Jr. It will serve you best when you use it vownload rectly. Bboy a well-trained Scout sets out on a wilderness hike, he first decides on his goal. Next, he considers bou whole route ahead of him. He then breaks down the route into laps along the way. Finally, he sets his compass and takes — off.

Follow the same procedure. Start by making your goal clear to yourself by going through the whole book, pay- ing special attention to the section "From Boy to Man," page Then — — and only then take your first definite step along the boy scout manual pdf download by passing your first test. After that it's simply a matter of one step перейти на страницу another until the goal is reached. Luck and happiness to you bly the way!

There is a way by which he can do so easily, and that is by becoming a Boy Scout. When the Boy Scouts of America was founded inone of the most urgent jobs of the founders was to develop a downkoad on Scouting suitable for the boys of the United States of America. This first handbook for American Scouts was published in July Since then it has been printed in more than 22 million copies. The book you hold in your hands this moment is the very /23041.txt, updated version of it, designed specifically for the American boy of today.

This means YOU. I hope that for years to come this book will жмите your companion as you follow the rugged road of Scouting. Read it well читать полностью often because every time you do you will find new paths to dodnload, to fun, and to adventure. It will help you in your outdoor activities. It will show you what you scoht to do to advance in Scouting.

It will help you become a true American citizen. Even though this your personal handbook, share it with your is. Upon your shoulders and those of young fellows like you, as you grow into manhood, will rest the hope of the free world. Scouting can help you be prepared for boy scout manual pdf download great responsibility. Do you hear in boy scout manual pdf download imagination the almost soundless dip- dip of Indian canoe paddles or install workstation on fedora 27 free ring of the ax of an early pioneer hewing a home out of the American wilder- ness?

Have you followed with your mind's eye the covered wagons on the trek across our continent? Have you thought of the men and women who built our country by their deter- mination and devotion? You are the descendant of those people. You are the guardian of what they built. You are the American on whom the future of our wonderful country depends. Before long you will be an American man. It is important to America and diwnload yourself that you become a citizen of fine character, physi- cally strong, mentally awake, and morally straight.

Boy Scouting helps you become that kind of citizen. But also. Scouting gives you fellowship and fun. Yes, it's fun to be a Boy Scout! It's fun to go hiking and camping with your best friends You are completely at home in God's great outdoors. You learn to notice every sound, to observe every track. Birds and animals become your friends. You master the skills of walking through the woods, of stalking close to a grazing boy scout manual pdf download noiselessly without being noticed, of bringing a bird to you by imitating its call.

You learn to find boy scout manual pdf download way cross-country by map and com- pass, to make a meal when you are hungry, to take a safe swim when you are hot, to make windows 10 free download comfortable for the night in a tent or under the stars. You become a true outdoorsman. As a mem- ber of a troop, you are a downloxd of the Boy Scouts of America as well. It's fun to take part in a good troop meeting under a capable Scoutmaster — but it is even more fun to go to boy scout manual pdf download mer camp with the whole troop, learn- boy scout manual pdf download new Scuot skills, joining in downloqd excitement of the campfire at night.

Scouting is learning to grow into responsible manhood, boy scout manual pdf download to be of service boy scout manual pdf download others. The Scout Oath and the Scout Law are your guides to citizen- ship. They tell you what is expected of a Scout and point out your duties. The Boy scout manual pdf download motto is Be Prepared — boy scout manual pdf download to sclut care of yourself and to help people in need.

Together, the motto and slogan spell out Our ability and your willingness to be of service. The records of the Scout scouf are full of reports of Scouts who have done outstanding service, of who have saved Scouts the lives of others at the risk of their own.

Some day you may join the roster of Scout heroes — if you are prepared. Your uniform is part of the thrill of being a Scout. The moment you put it on you manuwl ready for hike or camp or other vigorous Scout activity. The Scout uniform stands for the brotherhood of Scouting, for the Scout ideals,and for outdoor life.

The color blends with the hues of forestand field. The design is made for comfort, for freedom of action, pf for health. Evers' Scout wears the same — uniform it is a badge of democracy, an emblem of service. To the public, the uniform proclaims aloud, "Here is a boy — who is a Scout'' for people know that only a boy who is a full- fledged member of the Boy Scouts of America has the right to wear the Bo Scout uniform.

Tenderfoot But there are other boy scout manual pdf download that tell of the Scoutcraft you have mastered and the rank you have reached and badges that show the world what responsibilities have been entrusted to you by your patrol and your troop.

The badges you earn master pc free the best proof of your de- termination to make the greatest possible use of the opportunities that Scouting offers you. But that is what happened. The day you become a Scout, you join a world bky with close to 9 million members in more than 80 countries around the globe.

All these Scouts have pledged themselves to the Scout Oath and Law. All of them consider you their brother. You will be wel- comed in a Boy Scout patrol and troop, and boys already Scouts will help you have a wonderful time in Scouting. This book will be your guide.

The boy scout manual pdf download printed in red and black tell you how to become a «n » Tenderfoot Scout. The boy scout manual pdf download in brown and black lead you on to Second Class.

The pages in green and black guide you to psf First Class. The boy scout manual pdf download in gray and black take you through Star and Life to Eagle Scout rank. Ready to set out on the Scouting sxout So you want to get in on all the fun and /11314.txt that Scouts have? Second, you have to find a Boy Scout troop near your home. Third, you have to know the rules of Scouting and boy scout manual pdf download skills expected of a Tenderfoot Scout.

Your Age. There isn't much you can do about your age. But in the meantime, if you are 8 or older, you. Then, as you get close to 1 1 you can жмите yourself with.

Finding a Troop. You should have no difficulty finding a troop near your home — there are thousands of them scattered across America. Ask the fellows you know. Some of them are probably Boy Manuak already. When you downlaod them you want to join, they'll invite bog you to their next meeting and you are immediately on your way to boy scout manual pdf download a Boy Scout.

Or ask your teacher or religious leader. Very possibly, there's a Boy Scout troop downlooad your school, or in your church or synagogue. If you live in a large town or city and still haven't found a troop, look in the telephone book under "Boy Scouts of America. Then go to the next meeting and get ready to biy. Take your dad along to that first meeting so that he, too, can find out about the troop and can meet the Scoutmaster.

If, by any chance, you five far out in the country where there. They'll tell you how to become a lone Scout or how to form a neighborhood patrol of your own.

Meeting the Tenderfoot Tests. Pdc coming to a troop meet- ing scut getting in with your future pals won't make dowload a Boy Scout overnight. There are rules you must follow and skills you. These rules and skills are spelled out in the Tenderfoot tests boy scout manual pdf download pages 34 downkoad As you read the Tenderfoot tests you will see that some of them deal with the ideals of Scouting — the Scout Oath and Law, the Scout motto and slogan.

Others have to do with the outward dwonload of a Scout — the Scout sign, salute, and handclasp, the Scout uni- form and the Scout downloa.

   

 

- Boy scout manual pdf download

   

Silver Medal. Silver Cross with first-class scout badge superimposed upon it and suspended from bar by blue ribbon. This medal is awarded to a scout who saves life with considerable risk to himself. Gold Medal. Gold Cross with first-class scout badge superimposed upon it and suspended from bar by white ribbon.

This medal is the highest possible award for service and heroism. It may be granted to a scout who has saved life at the greatest possible risk to his own life, and also to anyone who has rendered service of peculiar merit to the Boy Scouts of America. The Honor Medal is a national honor and is awarded only by the National Council. To make application for one of these badges the facts must first be investigated by the Court of Honor of the Local Council and presented by that body to the Court of Honor of the National Council.

The Local Court of Honor may at any time invite experts to share in their examinations and recommendations. When the National Court of Honor has passed upon the application, the proper medal will be awarded.

The assistant patrol leader wears one bar. Service Stripes: For each year of service as a boy scout, he will be entitled to wear a stripe of white braid around the sleeve above the wrist, three stripes being changed for one red one. Five years of scouting would be indicated by one red stripe and two white stripes. The star indicates the position for wearing merit badges. Scout Master: The badge of the scout commissioner, scout master, and assistant scout master is the first-class scout's badge reproduced in blue, green, and red, respectively, and are worn on the sleeve below the left shoulder.

Chief Scout: The badge of the Chief Scout is the first-class scout badge with a five-pointed star above it embroidered in silver. Chief Scout Surgeon: The badge of the Chief Scout Surgeon is the first-class scout badge with a caduceus above it embroidered in green.

The Chief Scout's staff wear the badge of rank in the same manner as the Chief Scout. Chief Scout Woodsman: The badge of the Chief Scout Woodsman is the first-class scout badge with two crossed axes above it embroidered in green. Chief Scout Stalker: The badge of the Chief Scout Stalker is the first-class scout badge with an oak leaf above it embroidered in blue.

Chief Scout of Athletics: The badge of the Chief Scout Director of Athletics is the first-class scout badge with a winged Mercury foot above it embroidered in green. Chief Scout Director of Chivalry: The badge of the Chief Scout Director of Chivalry is the first-class scout badge with the scout sign above it embroidered in gold.

Appropriate badges for national and local councilmen may be secured from the National Headquarters. It should be clearly understood by all interested in the Scout Movement that it is not necessary for a boy to have a uniform or any other special equipment to carry out the scout program. There are a great many troops in the country which have made successful progresswithout any equipment whatever.

However, for the convenience of boys who wish to secure a uniform or other equipment, the National Council has made arrangements with certain manufacturers to furnish such parts of the equipment as may be desired by the boys. Such arrangements have been made with these manufacturers only after a great number of representative firms have been given an opportunity to submit samples and prices; the prices quoted to be uniform throughout the country.

The official badge is fully protected by the U. Patent Laws and anyone using it without expressed authority from National Headquarters is subject to prosecution at law.

Considerable difficulty has been experienced in the selection of the material used in making coats, breeches, and shirts. The material used in the boy scout coat, breeches, and shirt has been submitted to a thirty-day sun test, the acid and strength test and is guaranteed to be a fast color and durable.

To show the result of the selection made, the manufacturer of these articles has been given the privilege of using the imprint of the official seal and the right to use the official buttons. We recommend the purchase of the articles having this imprint through any local dealer or through National Headquarters.

However, where a local council exists, buttons will be supplied on order of the Executive Committee for use on such uniforms as the Committee may desire to have made locally. In communities where no local council has been formed, they may be supplied on order of a registered scout master. Prices of the buttons per set for coat is 15 cents and per set for shirt 10 cents.

Every effort is made to have all parts of the uniform and equipment available to scouts through local dealers. If such arrangements have not been made in a community, the National Headquarters will be glad to help in making such an arrangement.

Many scout masters prefer to order uniforms and other supplies direct from National Headquarters. In order to cover the expense involved in handling these supplies, the manufacturers have agreed to allow National Headquarters the same trade discount allowed to local dealers.

Trade through National Headquarters if sufficiently large will help to meet a part of the current expenses of the National Organization.

Any combination desired may be made from this list. For instance, the Summer equipment which consists of: Hat, 50 cents; Shirt, 75 cents; Shorts, 50 cents; Belt, 40 cents.

Where it is desired to equip the members of the troop with a standard uniform the following equipment is suggested: Hat, Shirt, Coat, Breeches or Knickerbockers, Belt, Leggings or Stockings, shoes, Haversack. However, it is recommended that each troop decide upon a definite combination to be worn by its members so that all of the scouts in the troop may dress alike. Each boy should pay for his own supplies and equipment. Soliciting donations for this purpose should be prohibited.

A complete list of all supplies and equipment with full information about places where same can be secured is given in the appendix of this book.

Moffat, Boy Scouts of America. Every scout knows what rope is. From the earliest moment of his play life he has used it in connection with most of his games. In camp life and on hikes he will be called upon to use it again and again.

It is therefore not essential to describe here the formation of rope; its various sizes and strength. The important thing to know is how to use it to the best advantage. To do this an intelligent understanding of the different knots and how to tie them is essential.

Every day sailors, explorers, mechanics, and mountain-climbers risk their lives on the knots that they tie. Thousands of lives have been sacrificed to ill-made knots. The scout therefore should be prepared in an emergency, or when necessity demands, to tie the right knot in the right way.

There are three qualities to a good knot: 1. Rapidity with which it can be tied. Its ability to hold fast when pulled tight, and 3. The readiness with which it can be undone. The following knots, recommended to scouts, are the most serviceable because they meet the above requirements and will be of great help in scoutcraft. If the tenderfoot will follow closely the various steps indicated in the diagrams, he will have little difficulty in reproducing them at pleasure.

In practising knot-tying a short piece of hemp rope may be used. To protect the ends from fraying a scout should know how to "whip" them. The commonest method of "whipping" is as follows:.

Lay the end of a piece of twine along the end of the rope. Then with the other end of the twine lay a loop back on the end of the rope and continue winding the twine upon this second end until all is taken up. The end is then pulled back tight and cut off close to the rope. For the sake of clearness a scout must constantly keep in mind these three principal parts of the rope:. The Standing Part- -The long unused portion of the rope on which he works;.

The Bight --The loop formed whenever the rope is turned back upon itself; and,. Before proceeding with the tenderfoot requirements, a scout should first learn the two primary knots: the overhand and figure-of-eight knots. Start with the position shown in the preceding diagram.

Back the end around the standing part and up through the bight and draw tight. Make a bight as before. Then lead the end around back of the standing part and down through the bight. After these preliminary steps, the prospective tenderfoot may proceed to learn the required knots. The commonest knot for tying two ropes together. Frequently used in first-aid bandaging.

Never slips or jams; easy to untie. If the ends are not crossed correctly when making the reef knot, the false reef or granny is the result. This knot is always bad. This knot is used in bending the sheet to the clew of a sail and in tying two rope-ends together.

Make a bight with one rope A, B, then pass end C, of other rope up through and around the entire bight and bend it under its own standing part. Form a small loop on the standing part leaving the end long enough for the size of the noose required. Pass the end up through the bight around the standing part and down through the bight again. To tighten, hold noose in position and pull standing part. Used for shortening ropes. Gather up the amount to be shortened, then make a half hitch round each of the bends as shown in the diagram.

Used to fasten one pole to another in fitting up scaffolding; this knot holds snugly; is not liable to slip laterally. Hold the standing part in left hand, then pass the rope around the pole; cross the standing part, making a second turn around the pole, and pass the end under the last turn. Used aboard yachts for bending on the gaff topsail halliards. It consists of two turns around a spar or ring, then a half hitch around the standing part and through the turns on the spar, and another half hitch above it around the standing part.

Used in hauling timber. Pass the end of the rope around the timber. Then lead it around its standing part and bring it back to make two or more turns on its own part.

The strain will hold it securely. Useful because they are easily made and will not slip under any strain. Their formation is sufficiently indicated by the diagram. Used for tying silk-worm gut for fishing purposes. It never slips; is easily unloosed by pulling the two short ends. The two ropes are laid alongside one another, then with each end an overhand knot is made around the standing part of the other.

Pull the standing parts to tighten. Turn the end of one rope A over its standing part B to form a loop. Pass the end of the other rope across the bight thus formed, back of the standing part B over the end A, then under the bight at C, passing it over its own standing part and under the bight again at D. The Mariner's Compass. Boxing the Compass consists in enumerating the points, beginning with north and working around the circle as follows:. The watch is often used to give the compass point exactly.

Thus: Point the hour-hand to the sun; then, in the morning, half-way between the hour-hand and noon is due south. If afternoon, one must reckon half-way backward. Thus: at 8 A. The south is at two o'clock. The "half-way" is because the sun makes a course of twenty-four hours and the clock of but twelve.

If we had a rational timepiece of twenty-four hours, it would fit in much better with all nature, and with the hour-hand pointed to the sun would make 12 o'clock, noon, always south. If you cannot see the sun, get into a clear, open space, hold your knife point upright on your watch dial, and it will cast a faint shadow, showing where the sun really is, unless the clouds are very heavy.

Finding Your Latitude by the Stars. The use of the stars to the scout is chiefly to guide him by showing the north, but the white man has carried the use a step farther: he makes the Pole-star tell him not only where the north is, but where he himself is.

From the Pole-star, he can learn his latitude. It is reckoned an exploit to take one's latitude from the North Star with a cart-wheel, or with two sticks and a bucket of water. The first attempt I made was with two sticks and a bucket of water. I arranged the bucket in the daytime, so that it could be filled from rim to rim; that is, it was level, and that gave me the horizon line; next, I fastened my two sticks together at an adjustable angle.

Then, laying one stick across the bucket as a base, I raised the other till the two sight notches on its upper edge were in straight line for the Pole-star.

The sticks were now fastened at this angle and put away till the morning. On a smooth board--the board is allowable because it can be found either far on the plains when you have your wagon, or on the ship at sea--I mapped out, first a right angle, by the old plan of measuring off a triangle, whose sides were six, eight, and ten inches, and applied the star angle to this. To make a scout's sundial, prepare a smooth board about fifteen inches across, with a circle divided into twenty-four equal parts, and a temporarily hinged pointer, whose upper edge is in the middle of the dial.

Place on some dead level, solid post or stump in the open. At night fix the dial so that the twelve o'clock line points exactly to north, as determined by the Polestar. Then, using two temporary sighting sticks of exactly the same height so as to permit sighting clear above the edge of the board set the pointer exactly pointing to the Pole-star; that is, the same angle as the latitude of the place, and fix it there immovably.

Then remove the two sighting sticks. As a timepiece, this dial will be found roughly correct for that latitude. The angle of the pointer, or style, must be changed for each latitude.

May, There are as many different kinds of log cabins as of any other architecture. It is best to begin with the simplest. The tools needed are a sharp ax, a crosscut saw, an inch auger, and a spade. It is possible to get along with nothing but an ax many settlers had no other tool , but the spade, saw, and auger save much work. For the site select a high, dry place, in or near the woods, and close to the drinking-water.

It should be a sunny place, and with a view, preferably one facing south or east. Clear off and level the ground. Then bring your logs.

These are more picturesque with the bark left on, but last longer peeled. Eight feet by twelve feet outside makes a good cabin for three or four boys. Cut and carry about twelve logs, each ten feet long; and twelve more, each fourteen feet long.

The logs should be at least six inches through. Soft wood is preferable, as it is easier to handle; the four ground logs or sills, at least, should be of cedar, chestnut, or other wood that does not rot.

Lay two of the fourteen-foot logs on the ground, at the places for the long sides, and seven feet apart. Then across them, at the end, lay two short ones, eleven feet apart.

This leaves about a foot projecting from each log. Roll the last two into their resting places, and flatten them till they sit firmly. It is of prime importance that each log rest immovably on the one below. Now cut the upper part of each end log, to an edge over each corner. Next put on two long logs, roll them onto the middle, taking care to change off, so the big end at a given comer may be followed next time by the small end and insure the corner rising evenly.

Roll one of these large logs close to where it is to be placed, then cut on its upper surface at each end a notch corresponding with the ridge on the log it is to ride on. When ready, half a roll drops it into place. Repeat the process now with the other sides, then the two ends, etc. As the walls rise, it will be found necessary to skid the larger logs; that is, roll them up on two long logs, or skids, leaning against the wall. When the logs are in place to the height of four and a half feet from the ground, it is time to decide where the door and window are to be; and at that place, while the next long log is lying on top, bottom up, cut out a piece four feet long and four inches deep.

Roll this log into place. One more log above this, or certainly two, will make your shanty high enough for boys. Put on final end logs, then two others across the shanty. Roll up the biggest, strongest log of all for the ridge sometimes two are used side by side ; it should lie along the middle of the four cross pieces shown in Fig.

The two cross logs, B and C, and the ridge log should be very strong, as the roof is heavy. Now we are ready to cut the doorway and window.

First, drive in blocks of wood between each of the logs, all the way down from A to the ground, and from B down to D, and C to E. Saw down now from A half-way through the ground log F. Then from B down to half-way through the log D; now continue from G, cutting down to half through the ground log. Use the ax to split out the upper half of the ground log, between the saw-cuts and also the upper half of the log D.

Hew a flat piece of soft wood, five or six inches wide, about two inches thick, and as long as the height of this doorway. Set it up against the ends of the logs A to F. Bore an auger hole through it into the end of each log these holes must not be in line lest they split the jamb , including the top and bottom ones, and drive into each a pin of oak. This holds all safely. Do the same on the other side, H to E, and put a small one down B, D, which is the side of the window.

Now we are ready to finish the roof. Use the ax to bevel off the corners of the four cross-logs, A and B. Then get a lot of strong poles, about five feet long, and lay them close together along the two sides of the roof till it is covered with poles; putting a very heavy one, or small log, on the outer edge of each, and fastening it down with a pin into the ridge log.

Cut two long poles and lay one on each of the lower ends of the roof poles, as at A, B, and C Fig. Pack this down. It will soon squeeze all that foot of straw down to little more than one inch, and will make a warm and water-tight roof. As the clay is very heavy, it is wise, before going inside, to test the roof by jumping on it.

If it gives too much, it will be well to add a centre prop. Now for the door: Hew out planks; two should be enough. Fasten these together with two cross-pieces and one angle-piece, using oak pegs instead of nails, if you wish to be truly primitive.

For these the holes should be bored part way with a gimlet, and a peg used larger than the hole. The lower end of the back plank is left projecting in a point. This point fits into a hole pecked with a point or bored with an auger into the door-sill.

Bore another hole near the top of the door A , and a corresponding one through the door-jamb between two logs. Set the door in place. A strip of rawhide leather, a limber willow branch, or a strip of hickory put through the auger hole of the door and wedged into the hole in the jamb, makes a truly wild-wood hinge. A peg in the front jamb prevents the door going too far out, and a string and peg inside answer for a latch. The window opening may be closed with a glass sash, with a piece of muslin, or with the rawhide of an animal, scraped clear of hair and stretched on a frame.

Chinking is best done from the inside. Long triangular strips and blocks of wood are driven in between the logs and fastened there with oak pins driven into the lower log till nothing but small crannies remain. Some cabins are finished with moss plugged into all the crannies, but mud worked into plaster does better. It should be put on the outside first, and afterward finished form the inside. It is best done really with two plasterers working together, one inside and one out.

The fireplace may be in one corner, or in the middle of the end. It is easiest to make in the former. Across the corner, peg three angle braces, each about three feet long.

These are to prevent the chimney falling forward. Now begin to build with stone, using mud as mortar, a fireplace this shape. The top corner-piece carries the rafter that may be cut off to let the flue out. Build the chimney up outside as high as the highest part of the ridge. But the ideal fireplace is made with the chimney on the outside of the cabin, at the middle of the end farthest from the door. For this you must cut a hole in the end log, like a big, low window, pegging a jamb on the ends as before.

With stones and mud you now build a fireplace inside the shanty, with the big chimney carried up outside, always taking care that there are several inches of mud or stone between the fire and any of the logs. In country where stone cannot be found, the fireplace is often built of mud, sustained by an outside cribbing of logs. If the flue is fair size, that is, say one quarter the size of the fireplace opening, it will be sure to draw. The bunk should be made before the chinks are plastered, as the hammering is apt to loosen the mud.

Cut eight or ten poles a foot longer than you need the bunk; cut the end of each into a flat board and drive these between the long logs at the right height and place for the bunk, supporting the other end on a crosspiece from a post to the wall.

Put a very big pole on the outer side, and all is ready for the bed; most woodsmen make this of small fir boughs. There are two other well-known ways of cornering the logs--one is simply flattening the logs where they touch. This, as well as the first one, is known in the backwoods of Canada as hog-pen finish. The really skilful woodsmen of the North always dovetail the comers and saw them flush: Fig.

Sometimes it is desirable to make a higher gable than that which one ridge log can make. Then it is made thus: Fig. This is as much slope as a clay roof should have; with any more, the clay would wash off. This is the simplest way to build a log-cabin, but it illustrates all the main principles of log building. Shingle roofs and gables, broad piazzas outside, and modern fitting inside, are often added nowadays in summer camps, but it must be clear that the more towny you make the cabin, the less woodsy it is, and less likely to be the complete rest and change that is desired.

For fuller instructions, see "Log-Cabins and Cottages. Wicks, Forest and Stream, N. The height of a tree is easily measured when on a level, open place, by measuring the length of its shadow, then comparing that with your own shadow, or that of a ten-foot pole.

Thus, the ten-foot pole is casting a fifteen-foot shadow, and the tree's shadow is one hundred and fifty feet long, apply the simple rule of three. But it is seldom so easy, and the good old rule of the triangle can be safely counted on: Get a hundred or more feet from your tree, on open ground, as nearly as possible on the level of its base.

Set up a ten-foot pole A B, page Then mark the spot where the exact line from the top of the tree over the top of the pole touches the ground C. Now measure the distance from that spot C to the foot of the ten-foot pole B ; suppose it is twenty feet. Measure also the distance from that spot C to the base of the tree D ; suppose it is one hundred and twenty feet, then your problem is:.

To make a right angle, make a triangle whose sides are exactly six, eight, and ten feet or inches each or multiples of these. The angle opposite the ten must be a true right angle.

There are many ways of measuring distance across rivers, etc. The simplest, perhaps, is by the equilateral triangle. Cut three poles of exactly equal length; peg them together into a triangle. Drive in three pegs to mark the exact points of this triangle A,B,C. Then move it along the bank until you find a place F,E,G where its base is on line with the two pegs, where the base used to be, and one side in line with the point across the river D.

The width of the river is seven eighths of the base of this great triangle. Another method is by the isosceles triangle. Make a right-angled triangle as above, with sides six, eight, and ten feet A,B,C ; then, after firmly fixing the right angle, cut down the eight-foot side to six feet and saw off the ten-foot side to fit.

Place this with the side D B on the river bank in line with the sight object X across. Then take the triangle along the bank in the direction of C until C' D' are in line with the sight object, while B' C' is in line with the pegs B C. Then the length of the long base B C' will equal the distance from B to X.

To measure the space between two distant objects, D and E. B G equals the space between D and E then. If the distance is considerable, it may be measured sometimes by sound.

Thus, when a gun is fired, a man is chopping, or a dog barking, count the seconds between the sight and the hearing of the sound, and multiply by eleven hundred feet, which is the distance sound travels in a second.

Occasionally, the distance of an upright bank, cliff, or building can be measured by the echo. Half the seconds between shout and echo, multiplied by eleven hundred gives the distance in feet. The usual way to estimate long distances is by the time they take to cover. Thus, a good canoe on dead water goes four to five miles an hour. A man afoot walks three and a half miles an hour on good roads.

A packtrain goes two and a half miles an hour, or perhaps one and a half on the mountain trails. Some answered, "Yes; once or twice.

It is quite certain to come sooner or later; if you go camping, you will get lost in the woods. Hunters, Indians, yes, birds and beasts, get lost at times. You can avoid it for long by always taking your bearings and noting the landscape before leaving the camp, and this you should always do; but still you will get lost some time, and it is well to be ready for it by carrying matches, knife, and compass.

When you do miss your way, the first thing to remember is, like the Indian, "You are not lost; it is the teepee that is lost. It cannot be so unless you do something foolish. The first and most natural thing to do is to get on a hill, up a tree, or other high lookout, and seek for some landmark near camp.

You may be sure of this much:. The worst thing you can do is to get frightened. The truly dangerous enemy is not the cold or the hunger so much as the fear. It is fear that robs the wanderer of his judgment and of his limb power; it is fear that turns the passing experience into a final tragedy. Only keep cool and all will be well.

If you see no landmark, look for the smoke of the fire. Shout from time to time, and wait; for though you have been away for hours it is quite possible you are within earshot of your friends.

If you happen to have a gun, fire it off twice in quick succession on your high lookout; then wait and listen. Do this several times and wait plenty long enough--perhaps an hour. If this brings no help, send up a distress signal--that is, make two smoke fires by smothering two bright fires with green leaves and rotten wood, and keep them at least fifty feet apart, or the wind will confuse them.

Two shots or two smokes are usually understood to mean "I am in trouble. If you have a dog or a horse with you, you may depend upon it he can bring you out all right; but usually you will have to rely on yourself. The simplest plan, when there is fresh snow and no wind, is to follow your own track back. No matter how far around or how crooked it may be, it will certainly bring you out safely.

If you are sure of the general direction to the camp and determined to keep moving, leave a note pinned on a tree if you have paper; if not, write with charcoal on a piece of wood, and also make a good smoke, so that you can come back to this spot if you choose. But make certain that the fire cannot run, by clearing the ground around it and by banking it around with sods. And mark your course by breaking or cutting a twig every fifty feet.

You can keep straight by the sun, the moon, or the stars, but when they are unseen you must be guided by the compass. I do not believe much in guidance by what are called nature's compass signs. It is usual to say, for example, that the north side of the tree has the most moss or the south side the most limbs, etc. While these are true in general, there are so many exceptions that when alarmed and in doubt as to which is north, one is not in a frame of mind to decide with certainty on such fine points.

If a strong west wind, for example, was blowing when you left camp, and has blown ever since, you can be pretty sure it is still a west wind; but the only safe and certain natural compass guides are the sun, moon, and stars. Of course, they go around it once in twenty-four hours, so this makes a kind of clock. The stars, then, will enable you to keep straight if you travel. But thick woods, fog, or clouds are apt to come up, and without something to guide you are sure to go around in a circle.

Old woodsmen commonly follow down the streams. These are certain to bring you out somewhere; but the very worst traveling is along the edges of the streams, and they take you a long way around.

All things considered, it is usually best to stay right where you are, especially if in a wild country where there is no chance of finding a farm house. Make yourself comfortable for the night by gathering plenty of good wood while it is daylight, and building a wind screen on three sides, with the fire in front, and something to keep you off the ground.

Do not worry but keep up a good fire; and when day comes renew your two smokes and wait. A good fire is the best friend of a lost man. I have been lost a number of times, but always got out without serious trouble, because I kept cool. The worst losing I ever got was after I had been so long in the West that I qualified to act as a professional guide, and was engaged by a lot of Eastern farmers looking for land locations.

This was in the October of on the Upper Assiniboin. The main body of the farmers had remained behind. I had gone ahead with two of them. I took them over hundreds of miles of wild country. As we went northward the country improved. We were traveling with oxen, and it was our custom to let them graze for two hours at noon.

One warm day, while the oxen were feeding, we went in our shirt sleeves to a distant butte that promised a lookout. We forgot about the lateness till the sun got low. Even then I could have got back to camp, but clouds came up and darkness fell quickly.

Knowing the general direction I kept on, and after half an hour's tramp we came to a canyon I had never seen before. I got out my compass and a match and found that I had been circling, as one is sure to do in the dark.

I corrected the course and led off again. After another brief turn I struck another match and learned from the compass that I was again circling.

This was discouraging, but with corrected course we again tramped. I was leading, and suddenly the dark ground ten feet ahead of me turned gray. I could not make it out, so went cautiously nearer. I lay down, reached forth, and then slowly made sure that we were on the edge of a steep precipice. I got out my match box and compass and found I had but one match left. Shall I use it to get a new course from the compass, or shall we make a fire and stay here till morning?

We groped into a hollow where we got some dead wood, and by using our knives got some dry chips from the inside of a log. When all was ready we gathered close around, and I got out the one match. I was about to strike it when the younger of the men said:. There was sense in this. I have never in my life smoked. Jack was an old stager and an adept with matches. I handed it to him. With the help of the firelight we now found plenty of dead wood; we made three blazing fires side by side, and after an hour we removed the centre one, then raked away all the hot ashes, and all lay down together on the warm ground.

When the morning came the rain ceased. We stretched our stiffened limbs and made for camp. Yes, there it was in plain view two miles away across a fearful canyon. Three steps more on that gloomy night and we should have been over the edge of that canyon and dashed to the bottom. How to Make Fire by Rubbing Sticks. I tried it once for an hour, and I know now I never would have got it in a thousand years as I was doing it. Others have had the same experience; consequently, most persons look upon this as a sort of fairy tale, or, if they believe it to be true, they think it so difficult as to be worth no second thought.

I have taught many boys and men including some Indians to do it, and some have grown so expert that they make it nearly as quickly as with an old-fashioned sulphur match. When I first learned from Walter Hough, who learned from the Indians, it took me from five to ten minutes to get a blazing fire--not half an hour, as some books have it.

But later I got it down to a minute, then to thirty-one seconds from the time of taking up the rubbing-sticks to having a fine blaze, the time in getting the first spark being about six seconds. My early efforts were inspired by book accounts of Indian methods, but, unfortunately, I have never yet seen a book account that was accurate enough to guide anyone successfully in the art of fire-making. All omit one or other of the absolute essentials, or dwell on some triviality.

Books Video icon An illustration of two cells of a film strip. Video Audio icon An illustration of an audio speaker. Audio Software icon An illustration of a 3. Software Images icon An illustration of two photographs. Images Donate icon An illustration of a heart shape Donate Ellipses icon An illustration of text ellipses. The official Boy Scout handbook Item Preview. It is a collection of my essays and reviews and bagatelles on appearances, institutions, and society, writers, travel, and war written over the past fifteen years or so, and written on very different occasions and for different purposes.

Featuring instruction in outdoors life, woodcraft, campcraft, and high-quality living, this classic text is foundational for outdoors youth programs in America. Inspired by an "unofficial" preceding handbook written by Ernest Thompson Seton and Lord Robert Baden-Powell in , this version of the scout handbook is the first "official" version that scouts used during the birth of boy scout programs in the U.

This text includes rank and badge requirements from , along with skills. Learn how to make a bow for shooting arrows, make a fire or tent from scratch, identify plants and animals, or find your way in the wilderness with the timeless tips in this book!

Includes the following main topics: 1 scoutcraft, badge requirements for , and knots; 2 woodcraft and nature lore; 3 campcraft, camping, and equipment; 4 tracking, trailing, and signaling; 4 healthy lifestyle and exercise; 5 chivalry; 6 first aid and lifesaving; 7 games; 8 patriotism and citizenship; 9 scout equipment; and 10 book lists for topics of interest to scouts.

This classic book makes a perfect gift for scouts or scout leaders, or any outdoors enthusiast who wants to master the skills of the outdoors and woodcraft!